Inside a factory in south China’s Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, workers at Guangxi Xuan Ma Food Co., Ltd. are busy packing durian-stuffed cakes. These snacks retain the distinct sulfurous aroma of durians, often likened to a blend of socks and rotting onions. The company, specializing in packed snacks, has seen pastries made from Southeast Asian durians become its bestsellers in recent years.
“We take orders on e-commerce platforms, bake the cakes, and deliver them within a day to ensure the cakes retain the iconic aroma of the durian pulp,” said Tang Chunlong, vice general manager of the company based in Nanning, Guangxi’s capital.
China is the world’s top consumer of durians, known for their pungent smell and luscious taste. Since last year, the country’s durian fervor has surged, fueled by the influx of durians from Vietnam and the Philippines, which gained market access to China under the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP).
As durians conquer store shelves across China, businesses like Xuan Ma are expanding their reach by developing new snacks and beverages made from durians. The company launched durian-flavored cakes in 2019, with annual sales skyrocketing from 800,000 yuan (about 110,000 U.S. dollars) to over 10 million yuan since then. Xuan Ma now consumes about 1 million yuan worth of durian pulp imported from Thailand each year.
“People’s obsession with durian has expanded into durian-flavored pastries and beverages, which will drive up demand for durian fruits imported from ASEAN countries,” Tang said, adding that the company plans to replicate its durian business success with snacks inspired by other tropical fruits from Southeast Asia.
Other businesses are also capitalizing on this trend by incorporating durian pulp as a bold ingredient in their culinary creations. Milk tea with durian pulp is our hottest-selling product,” said Jariya Unthong, a Thai street stall owner selling Thai milk tea in Nanning. “Customers usually have to queue for over half an hour to get one.”
Some of the most daring durian recipes are found in eateries. Several high-end restaurants in Guangxi have introduced hotpots with durian and chicken soup to immense market success. “Since its debut earlier this year, our chicken durian hotpot has consistently remained among our top three most popular dishes,” said Pang Jie, the owner of a hotpot restaurant. “We prefer Monthong durian from Thailand for its sweet and buttery taste, which has strong brand recognition among picky urbanites.”
“Many customers come for a novel experience, but some eventually become loyal fans of the dish,” he added.
Official data showed that in 2023, China imported 1.43 million tonnes of fresh durians, with 929,000 tonnes from Thailand and 493,000 tonnes from Vietnam.
“As a latecomer to the country’s vast food processing landscape, durian has the potential to be front and center in China. The demand for both the fruit and its processed products will continue to rise,” said Niti Pratoomvongsa, director of the commercial office of the Royal Thai Consulate General in Nanning.
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